Sharia as-Souk in Aswan, Egypt
In the Southern most part of Egypt lies a small city nestled between the Nile and the desert, Aswan. It is self proclaimed ” The City of Gold”, and you will find their slogan proudly painted on the many colorful murals, and on sides of the old, white, taxis that wildy drive all over town. Aswan is the biggest city in this region of Upper Egypt, and is just a few hours away from Abu Simbel, one of the most important archeological sites of the Ancient Egyptians. It is also known for the colorful Nubian villages that dot the banks of the Nile, Philae Island where the temple of Isis sits, and it’s large and colorful market, the Aswan Souk, or Sharia as- Souk, as its referred to by locals.
I’ve always been a sucker for a good market. It’s probably single handedly my favorite thing to do while traveling to a new city or town. The different smells you pass through as you turn corners, the barefoot kids running around with food in one hand and smiles on their faces, the ritual that takes places during the setting up and breaking down of each day. The dirt and chaos and loud sounds all seem to find harmony within one another here, and for me, it feels like the quickest way to realllly get to know a place, at it’s core. Markets are like the heart of the town, that encompass both the chaos and beauty that together form a culture.
And roaming the narrow street of Shara as- Souk felt like we were taking a peak right into the golden heart of Aswan, and a reminder of the many layers of Egyptian history.
The old souk (arabic word for market) in Aswan is thousands of years old. Aswan itself as a city, is over 4500 years old, and was first called “Swenett”, and later “sono” which means market. It’s always been a city of importance for commercial trade, connecting Ancient Egypt with the rest of Africa below. Gold, Ivory, Spices, and more. Although there are more “modern” additions such as wooden pergolas, and some stores with glass doors, there are certain moments where you see a old piece of fabric hanging above blowing in the wind, or crumbling parts of the concrete wall that remind you just how ancient this street is. It is easy to transport yourself into the past, and imagine what it would have been like then.
The more “modern” part of the market is found on the Southern part of the street, towards the railroad station. Here you can find clothes, backpacks, sunglasses, stores with random plastic house products, and makeup stalls. There are also stores with traditional handcraft such as Nubian style baskets, embroidered clothing, and buckets full of local spices and grains. The farther North you walk down the street, the more narrow it becomes and the more antique the stores are. You will find mostly stalls with the spices, fruits and veggies, every kind of date you can imagine, typical “touristy” stores with little statues of the Ancient Egyptian Gods and Goddesses and trinkets, and a few very special antique stores.
The photo here, and most of the ones below are from one of our favorite antique stores. He had pieces old Nubian talismans and traditional thick bracelets worn by married women, old African masks, hand painted drums, colorful baskets that had been faded by the sun, and stuffed crocodile heads. I loved seeing the hand carved bone and turquoise pieces, and we got a few stones that we will use to create jewelry with later. The Nubian men working let us explore and ask questions over a glass of fresh mint tea. As well as told us stories behind the intricate pieces and how this store has been in their family for many generations.
You can also find papyrus paper, handmade clothes and bags, jewelry, and all of the other typical things that you may want to bring home. Not to mention the cutest little street vendor we found that has set up little cushions and pillows on the floor in the middle of the market, that sells traditional pita with whatever filling you’d like for around $.50-$1 each.
For us, this market, and Aswan in general felt so refreshing compared to other parts of Egypt we had been to because of how related the people are in general. Luxor was absolutely exhausting and we could have never managed to slowly roam around the market daily like we did in Aswan. Guys will follow you for four blocks trying to get you to go to their store in Luxor, or offer to help with you with something that you didn’t ask for. But in Aswan, everyone has a much more ladi back approach. They still try to get you to come intro their store and buy from them, but their attitude is much more light and friendly then pushy. The Nubian influence, and overall chill Nile vibe here has alot to do with it. Overall- its a market and town I highly recommend if you find yourself wanting to explore the history and culture of Southern Egypt.
A FEW MORE OF MY FAVORITE SHOTS :
